The seeds of change are taking root across New Brunswick, quite literally. Standing among a cluster of young apple trees on St. Mary’s First Nation territory, Elder Alma Brooks gently touches a sapling that represents far more than future fruit.
“This isn’t just about growing food,” Brooks explains, gesturing across the emerging food forest. “It’s about reconnecting with traditional knowledge and creating sustainable food systems for our children and grandchildren.”
The initiative at St. Mary’s First Nation marks a growing movement across the province, where communities are turning to an ancient concept with modern relevance: food forests. Unlike conventional agriculture, these carefully designed ecosystems mimic woodland structures while producing edible crops at multiple levels – from root vegetables to fruit trees.
The movement comes at a critical time. According to Food Banks Canada, New Brunswick saw a 32 percent increase in food bank usage last year, with nearly 40,000 residents seeking emergency food assistance monthly. As grocery prices continue their steep climb, community-based solutions are finding fertile ground.
“We’re planting the future we want to see,” says Michelle Smith, coordinator for the St. Mary’s project. “Within three years, this space will provide free, nutritious food while teaching traditional harvesting practices.”
The two-acre plot already features apple trees, hazelnut shrubs, and berry bushes. Beneath them grow medicinal plants and nitrogen-fixing companions that eliminate the need for synthetic fertilizers. The design isn’t random – it’s carefully planned permaculture, where each plant serves multiple functions.
Provincial data shows approximately 7.5 percent of New Brunswick households experience food insecurity, with rates higher among Indigenous communities and single-parent households. The food forest model addresses these disparities by creating accessible food sources in public spaces.
In Fredericton’s north side, another food forest project has transformed a former vacant lot into a productive community space. “People were skeptical at first,” admits city councillor Kate Rogers, who championed the initiative. “Now they’re harvesting raspberries and learning about edible plants they never knew existed in our region.”
The Fredericton project, entering its fourth year, now produces over 600 kilograms of food annually – all free for community harvest. What began as an experiment has become a model for other municipalities across the province.
Provincial support has been modest but meaningful. The Environmental Trust Fund provided $25,000 to help establish three new food forests this year, while the Regional Development Corporation contributed technical assistance through agricultural extension services.
“The beauty of food forests is their resilience,” explains Dr. Amy Parachnowitsch, a biologist at the University of New Brunswick. “Unlike conventional monoculture farming, these diverse plantings are naturally resistant to pests and climate fluctuations. They’re designed for long-term food security.”
Back at St. Mary’s, the food forest project extends beyond physical nourishment. Youth programs bring students to learn traditional harvesting methods and understand the relationships between plants.
“My grandmother taught me which plants heal and which nourish,” says Brooks. “That knowledge almost disappeared during my lifetime. Now I’m seeing young people recognize plants I feared they’d never know.”
The project incorporates Wolastoqey language education through plant identification. Traditional names appear alongside scientific ones on carefully placed signs, creating an outdoor classroom for cultural preservation.
Not everyone embraced the concept immediately. Some community members questioned using valuable land for slow-growing perennials rather than immediate crops. Others worried about maintenance and vandalism.
“There was pushback,” Smith acknowledges. “But we invited skeptics to participate in the design process. When people understand they’re creating something that will feed the community for decades, perspectives shift.”
The maintenance model relies on community involvement rather than municipal services. Volunteer days bring residents together monthly for work that feels more like celebration than labor.
Food forests also address climate concerns. Dense plantings sequester carbon while managing stormwater runoff. The St. Mary’s project will capture an estimated 4.5 tonnes of carbon annually once mature – small but meaningful in the broader climate picture.
For Alma Brooks, watching schoolchildren excitedly identify edible plants represents success beyond measure. “They’re learning our traditional ways of relating to the land,” she says, watching a young boy carefully pick blackberries. “That knowledge sustained us for thousands of years. It can help sustain us again.”
As more communities express interest in establishing their own food forests, a provincial network has emerged to share knowledge and resources. The New Brunswick Food Forest Network now connects twelve communities implementing similar projects.
“What’s happening here isn’t just about food,” Smith reflects as volunteers spread mulch around newly planted shrubs. “It’s about reimagining our relationship with land and each other.”
With proper care, these forest gardens will produce increasing yields for decades – perhaps centuries – creating living monuments to community resilience and foresight. In a province grappling with food security challenges, these growing woodland gardens offer a tangible taste of hope.
