The battle for the bottle on British Columbia’s wine shelves took a concerning turn this week as local winemakers voiced growing alarm over competition from imported fruits. The controversy comes at a delicate moment for an industry already navigating climate extremes, labor shortages, and shifting consumer preferences.
Walking through the sun-dappled vineyards at Summerland Estate Winery, owner David Gatfield gestures toward rows of ripening grapes with visible frustration. “We’ve spent decades building a reputation for quality BC wine,” he explains, adjusting his well-worn cap. “Now we’re competing with products made from Chilean or California fruit but marketed with local imagery.”
Gatfield’s concern stems from a regulatory loophole allowing some producers to import fruit from outside the province while still giving consumers the impression of BC-grown quality. Unlike VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) certified wines, which must use 100% BC-grown grapes, non-certified products face fewer origin restrictions.
The BC Wine Authority estimates that nearly 18% of wine sold as “Product of British Columbia” now contains imported fruit—a figure that’s risen steadily over three years according to their latest market assessment.
“This isn’t just about protecting turf,” says Sandra Oldfield, former CEO of Tinhorn Creek Vineyards and an influential voice in the industry. “It’s about transparency for consumers and supporting the local agricultural ecosystem that thousands of families depend on.”
The economic stakes are considerable. BC’s wine industry generates approximately $3.75 billion annually for the provincial economy while supporting over 12,000 jobs, according to the BC Wine Institute’s economic impact study. Much of this activity occurs in rural communities where vineyard operations serve as essential economic anchors.
Minister of Agriculture Pam Alexis acknowledged these concerns during a recent visit to the Okanagan Valley. “We’re examining labeling requirements to ensure consumers can make informed choices about the products they purchase,” she said while touring a Kelowna vineyard operation. “The integrity of BC’s wine reputation matters to our government.”
For smaller producers like Gatfield, the issue hits particularly hard after weathering challenging growing seasons. “We lost about 30% of our harvest to extreme temperatures last year,” he says. “Meanwhile, producers using imported fruit didn’t face those constraints and could maintain lower costs.”
The controversy reflects broader tensions in Canadian agriculture where country-of-origin labeling continues to spark debate. Consumer advocacy groups point to surveys showing that 88% of BC residents believe clear origin information should be mandatory on wine labels.
“When someone buys BC wine, they’re not just purchasing a beverage—they’re investing in local agricultural practices, regional employment, and sustainable farming,” explains Dr. Miranda Harrison, an agricultural economist at the University of British Columbia. “The economic multiplier effect is substantially higher with truly local products.”
Winery tasting rooms across the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys report increasing questions from visitors about grape sourcing. At Painted Rock Estate Winery, staff now proactively highlight their commitment to estate-grown fruit—a marketing necessity in the current environment.
“Visitors come for an authentic experience connected to this specific landscape,” says tasting room manager Janice Reynolds. “They want to taste what our particular soil and climate conditions produce, not something that could have been made anywhere.”
Industry advocates have proposed solutions including clearer labeling requirements, differential tax structures based on local content percentage, and consumer education campaigns. The BC Grape Growers’ Association has launched a “Know Your Grapes” initiative aimed at helping consumers identify products made exclusively with provincial fruit.
For vineyard workers like Miguel Sanchez, who has tended vines in the Okanagan for over fifteen years, the issue transcends economics. “Every vine here tells a story about this place,” he says during a break from summer pruning. “We face frost, drought, sometimes wildfire smoke—but those challenges make our wines unique.”
The BC government has signaled it’s reviewing regulations, though any changes would likely require balancing multiple stakeholder interests. Import-reliant producers argue that flexibility helps maintain affordable options for consumers while building business scale that ultimately benefits the entire industry.
Market data suggests the premium segment remains dominated by locally-grown products, with imports primarily affecting entry-level price points. However, industry analysts warn that brand confusion could eventually undermine the price premiums that sustain BC’s wine economy.
As harvest approaches in the coming weeks, Gatfield and his fellow growers hope for both a quality vintage and regulatory clarity. “We’re not afraid of competition,” he says, watching workers inspect vineyard rows for ripeness. “We just want it on level ground with clear rules that respect what we’ve built here.”
For now, consumers seeking authentically local products are advised to look for VQA certification or ask direct questions about fruit sourcing when visiting wineries—a small extra step that could have significant implications for the future of BC’s wine landscape.
